We were told-the most convenient way to get to Coorg (Kodagu) would be-Bangalore (by air), and Mysore (by train). The other points of entry would be Calicut and Mangalore. We chose Bangalore. We knew nothing else. We left ourselves in the hands of our friend Thomas Cherian, who we trusted enough to create the perfect holiday. So out of Mumbai on a flight to busy Bangalore, en route to the cool, green, coffee laden hills of Coorg we went.
Anxiety laden with anticipation, the pot-holed roads did not ease our thoughts. Our driver was experienced but could not compensate for want of the government’s interest in the betterment of road travel. But all things being equal, the distance was put aside (245 Km), as we labored through the sugarcane fields of Mandya, the historical town of Srirangapatna, Hunsur, and Priyapattana, towards a completely beautiful destination in Siddapur.We were equipped with our woolies, sneakers and our enthusiasm, as we were forewarned of the climate, but global warming could put the best out of gear.
Driving towards our destination, the air actually got cooler, the foliage denser, and it looked like we were finally heading towards-Orange County. Known to be the first ever Eco friendly nature resort created by the Ramaapuram brothers, OC manned 300 acres of fragrant coffee plantations, pepper and cardamom. Wow! 16th century, Tudor style thatched cottages, built in clusters, battery operated buggys to transport luggage, the Yes I Can badge wearing staff, made it all pretty surreal.
We were finally there! We were taken straight to the Granary (Multi-cuisine restaurant) for lunch, where we experienced the Orange County hospitality first hand. Delectable Coorgi cuisine of spicy pandhi (pork curry), Coorg Koli (Chicken) Kadumbuttu (rice dumplings), nool puttu (rice noodles), votti (rice pancakes) and akki roti were served along with an array of various foods.
By now we were ready to be taken to our accommodation. The serenity of the whole resort coupled with the warm wooden interiors of our cottage (built in typical Kodava style architecture), took our breath away. Our allotted Pool Villa comprised of a dining cum sitting room (with amenities like TV, fridge, water cooler, kettle, air conditioning, heating, safe deposit locker, the works), a vast bedroom filled with a four poster bed and dresser, opening out to a sit-out.
And the cherry on the cake was our own private pool and Jacuzzi. We now had all the comforts and that too all under the camouflaged thatched roof. We were definitely looking for an action packed two days at Coorg.
All rested by now we followed our able and good natured guide Ganesh, (who was like a talking encyclopedia) along the Spice tour. His stories were many, his explanations drama filled, and the forest very real. Groves of trees, exotic sounds of various birds, (350 identified bird species?) the vast expanse of the attractive red berries of coffee, being sheltered by tall silver oak trees, the clinging pepper corn vines greeted us silently.
The forest was alive and showing of its brilliance in full bloom. We applauded the show of nature and were glad to be nestled in its grandeur. Rumour has it that in 1670, Baba Budan, a Muslim pilgrim, smuggled seven coffee seeds out of Mecca and planted them in the Chickmagalur region near Coorg, in Karnataka. Thus we now have coffee in India, and today Karnataka yields 1, 40,000 tones of coffee a year.
Back to our cottage, we were ready for the spa facilities, rendered by the Viadyasala. Expert masseurs unleashed 5000 years of Ayurveda- India’s holistic medicinal system like magic into our bodies. We succumbed to the Abhyanga (a body massage with medicinal oils). While older people indulge in places like the Spa, the resort offers children a play area, swimming facilities, bicycles, (Pulper) a library, indoor games and shuttle badminton. Satiated –almost, we retired at dusk to our rooms only to emerge, rejuvenated enough to watch the cultural show.
By now the climate had turned cold enough to don our jackets and sweaters. Coorg was living up to its reputation of being 900 sq ft above sea level. A comfortable atmosphere, allows one to actually make friends, and Orange County’s ambience encourages one to do so. Young and old are equally attracted and welcome to this nature resort. Our friends were put up in The Camp-OC’s newest offering. Luxury tents having all the amenities, and their very own specialty restaurant-Peppercorn.
Bright blue skies and a crisp January cold, greeted us the next day. Nature and Orange County conspired to give us a bright and sunny day. One has a host of activities that can keep one occupied at Orange County like boating, fishing at the Estate Lake, guided trekking, bird watching with a naturalist, and the famed coracle ride. Breakfast all done, we chose to see the life of pachyderms in the Dubare Elephant Camp at Nisargadhama (35 km away) and located across the river Cauvery. Here one is allowed to join the mahouts in bathing these gentle beasts, even feeding them and riding on them (a two hour exercise).
Our next stop was the Tibetan Settlement (the second largest outside Tibet) and the Namdroling Monastery (7000 monks) at Bylekuppe. Huge 40 feet statues of the Buddha and his disciples can be seen in the Golden Temple. Amidst all of this are the abodes of the Buddhist monks, who live there, oblivious of the fact that thousands of tourists daily come to see their way of life. What we seem to have missed is 400 monks all chanting in unison at the Temple. Now that would have been a memorable sight.
Chai and momos at the café opposite eased us into a relaxed state as we headed back to the resort. A relaxed afternoon and we were ready for another evening walk. Dinner at the Peppercorn, complete with its entire jungle ambience and flavour ended yet another action-filled day. We were finally ready to move on to our next destination.
Leaving the chill behind, we drove to Orange County’s Kabini Resort – a romantic rural getaway. The drive was not the easiest; and an SUV would have definitely done the job better on rocky roads like the one we were on. But what we were about to experience took away the discomfort we incurred. The Kabini resort, designed By George Ramapuaram, boasts of Colonial architecture, and is situated on 20 acres of land, housing 26 Jacuzzi huts and 8 pool huts. It was a truly picturesque sight, as we approached the settlement – the whole area cordoned off and nestled by the Kabini River. We were about to experience luxury living in tribal style, and have a complete wildlife holiday steeped in the culture and folklore of the Kadu Kuruba tribe.
Having checked in to a lobby, that really did not have any kind of formalities; I remember thinking, as the silence hung like a heavy cloak on everything around us that this was going to be a memorable holiday. We walked a distance, to our mud walled Hadi, a pool hut right at the edge of the lodge, which was actually a suite with 1233 sq ft of pure private space. Imagine entering a beautiful sit out, enclosing a private pool manned by 2 deck chairs, inviting you immediately to strip and slip into infinity. But you first want to check in, settle your stuff, so to speak and then indulge.
The main suite consists of a sitting room, with an attached dining space and bar. What caught my eye here was the reverse osmosis plant in each room that gave us safe drinking water (only on par with mineral water). But since the owners only encourage absolute eco- friendly living there is just no plastic to be seen. The other thing worth a mention is the dedicated Windmill energy that supplies the whole resort with power and even the pools are ionized.
As we looked around we found that the luxury did not end there, the bed room was filled with a big four poster bed, fringed with white curtains, an old chest to hold linen, the curtains had tribal motifs, and the lamps were made of bottle gourd. Split bamboo ceilings, gave way to bamboo windows and casuarina wood cupboards. The bathroom panned an open and closed space, the shower area and the tub and then there was the open feel of nature surrounding bliss. I fluffed the pillows little knowing that I would be on the same bed for the next two days soaking in the picture postcard window, overlooking the Kabini River, till then I did not realise that there were no TV’s in the vicinity.
Activities at the Kabini are well spaced, considering you spend more than two nights at this tribal resort to actually get the whole flavour. Before we were ready, we were taken on a boat cruise along the river, to sight the animals that were very few in numbers anyway since the watering holes in the jungle were full. The animals that are known to be sighted are cats (tigers, leopards), wild dogs, elephants, varied birds, langurs, sloth bears, and wild boars. We were lucky to sight a few. Tired from the rough journey and having braved the cold in Orange County, my body finally gave in to the fatigue. Dinner was in bed, while a fever raged.
Sunrise was a blessing. Breakfast in bed. I felt like Meryl Streep in ‘Out of Africa’. Cocooned in a satin nightshirt, wistfully looking out as the sky beckoned, but I decided there was no way I could be bundled into a jeep to experience the ride into the jungle. Well! There was a bicycle tour. Kabini they tell me sits on the fringes of the 644 km Nagarhole National Park, filled with forests on one side and the Bandipur reserve on the other. I make do with stepping out of my room in the evening for a wildlife film show in the lovely lobby overlooking the river.
And then there is the exciting evening program that Kabini offers. A tribal dance by Kadi Kurubas by firelight. Sorry that I had not partaken in most of the action, I retire with a heavy heart, to my room, nursing a feeling that someday I would be back for more. Kabini definitely leaves an impact on an urban mind that needs to unwind. The sight and sounds of this little hamlet beckon and promise to leave you wanting.. I am coming back for the tribal drums, native villages and nature trails…..
Previously published in the Sindhian
Image Credits : Maya Lalchandani, Google
