There’s an interesting fact about the people of Coorg in south Karnataka: The Kodavas, an ethnic warrior people who speak the Kodagu language, are the only community in India who are permitted to own firearms without a license. They claim it’s because they are very brave and responsible, but the historical context goes back to the days of the British Raj when the Kodavas were allowed to have firearms in return for their services to the Empire. A loophole in the law allowed this exemption to continue in independent India.
No doubt the Kodavas are a very valorous people, but one really wonders why anyone would need firearms in a quiet little hamlet in the hills dotted with coffee plantations and harmless animal life. A three to four-hour drive from Mangalore airport, I arrived at the paperless lobby of the Ibnii in Coorg, where I was welcomed with a traditional greeting of chukka coffee with kadumbuttu (rice ball with jaggery).
This is a seven-star property, including a cool 125 acres of coffee plantation. The air was heavy with the smell of pine and petrichor as I was transported by buggy to my 1200 sq ft villa in the middle of evergreen woodland. It felt like the lines had already blurred, like nature and man were no longer separate. The magic of Ibnii had already enveloped me. The villa, Kopi Luwak, was pure refined luxury, comprising everything one ever needed – including a jacuzzi, a private plunge pool, the works.
My morning view was of lakes and mists and the cacophony of the cicadas. I was gently reminded that Ibnii in Kodugu means ‘dew’. Each villa seemed almost a mile away, separated by green forest. There are 22 villas like these and then some wooden cottages along with some premium suites. Catering to a global traveller, all the trappings spell luxury, but the resort has limited its carbon footprint. The founders have been careful not to disturb the delicate balance of spaces, and have kept a harmonious balance between architecture and nature.
Most of the meals are served at the multi-cuisine restaurant, The Fig, situated at a level where one can overlook a beautiful water body and a huge expense of green. The cuisine boasts of the resort’s own jams and pickles, even oven-fresh breads. The greens and vegetables are grown organically here. A vegetarian menu is offered at the Ballale, where the décor represents the spices grown in-house and used by the chefs. One can also opt for the all-barbequed meals at Masi Kande, and try a novel way of barbequing on one’s own table.
Early evenings are filled with activities like fishing by the freshwater harvesting lake. The resort encourages responsible fishing, so caught fish can be let go again. Painting on canvas is another way of connecting with nature through art. Kaldi Kappee, the picturesque coffee shop, allows you to brew your own cup. Views of a planter’s life are also shared. But there’s nothing like an actual walk through the plantations, hearing of their natural cycles and grading processes.
Manja, the spa, is named after the medicinal herb turmeric and the therapists entwine tradition and science to create temporary bliss. The most interesting part of the Ibnii resort is the way it supports the eco-system. The resort has a large water catchment system that not only saves huge volumes during the monsoons, it also takes good care of their fauna and flora.
A state-of the-art water-treatment plant also recycles all used water into fresh water. They also have an advanced waste management system, and interestingly, they fine guests for food thrown away! The amount collected goes to an NGO that feeds orphan children in Madikeri. It’s no wonder this resort is the first in India to bag the prestigious IGBC Platinum Certification for sustainable luxury.
Image credits : Maya Lalchandani
